Review: The David Yurman Anvil Collection for Men

Image Credit: David Yurman

I don't want to write this review. I didn't think I would have to, truth be told. I thought Anvil would enjoy fairly quiet release as did the Amulets Collection earlier this year, would flounder in sales, and be routed to the outlets, and that would be that. Instead, earlier this week, David Yurman launched considerable advertising devoted to the collection. Ay. So here we are.

Anvil is for 2017 what Griffin was for 2013. (You remember Griffin, right? I bemoaned it extensively right here on this blog, and then it went away, and life was good.) It is hyper-masculine. It is cool and "edgy." It lacks refinement.

According to corporate adspeak, the "new for men's" (yes, that's horrible grammar) Anvil Collection "connotes chiseled strength through unique shapes of highly-crafted steel, bronze, and sterling silver." And, honestly, I'll give it the "chiseled strength" bit, but that only contributes to gripe #1: Anvil is not versatile. The designs are fairly straight-forward--a mix of linear and curved surfaces--but having all a brushed/matte finish, they only mesh with a casual, everyday look. And these are not pieces of jewelry that "class up" that outfit. Throw them on with a pair of jeans and a tee, and they look fine, but you're still just wearing a pair of jeans and a tee. There is no elevation of the look, as can otherwise be so easily accomplished with high-polish pieces.

Gripe #2: Anvil is unremarkable. I avoid the term "uninspired" here because I do appreciate how the designs re-imagine an ancient tool. The problem is that the final products fail to produce an effect, really. They are just okay. Worse, because they are hyper-masculine a la Griffin, the designs approach the look of men's jewelry designed by shopping-mall stores like Kay Jewelers or a Guess of the world.

Gripe #3: Anvil is not luxury. I know, I know. David Yurman likes to tout its use of "unconventional materials" in men's designs these days, but I'm sorry: Bronze and steel aren't unconventional. (Bronze jewelry has existed for millennia.) What they are is fairly cheap. Unlike gold and silver, which are precious, these are standard metal alloys, which brings me to gripe #4.

Gripe #4: Anvil is grossly overpriced. The silver and bronze cuff with 0.36 carts of brown diamonds runs 2400 USD. (I know: What?!) A band ring of sterling silver in a stainless steel shell? 550 USD. 

The Verdict

With Anvil, David Yurman has on its hands another misstep in men's. The pieces target a limited demographic, do not look--or, in the case of the flimsy wide black leather bracelet, feel--designer, and cost far too much for what they are, construction-material-wise. On the upside, the marketing for Anvil is richer and more extensive than what has been done for men's collections in the recent past. It almost makes me overlook the meh-ness of the product. Almost.  5/10